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Séminaire de Miguel Onorato

by Webmestre - published on

«Hydrodynamic Rogue Waves»

Miguel Onorato
Dipartimento di Fisica, Universita di Torino, Via P. Giuria, 1 - 10125 - Torino - ITALTY

I will discuss some issues related to the statistical properties of ocean surface gravity
waves. I will show that, using the approach of wave turbulence theory, deviations
from Gaussian statistics can be naturally described. In particular, I will discuss the
role of bound and free modes in the determination of the statistical properties of the
surface elevation. General equations for skewness and kurtosis as a function of the
spectral wave action density are presented. The present results are the bases of the
rogue wave forecasting method employed at the European Centre for Medium-Range
Weather Forecasts. I will also discuss some experiments performed in a 280 meters
wave tank and compare theoretical results with experimental ones. Analogies with
nonlinear optics will be pointed out.